Haebangchon, But Make It a Date: Shinheung Market → 108 Stairs → Burger Plan B

Namsan Tower view peeking between Haebangchon rooftops

Namsan photobombing our walk.

We finally did it—weeks of “HBC soon?” texts became one blue-sky afternoon where we tossed a tote into the car and pointed it uphill. Ten minutes later we were doing the Haebangchon shuffle: inching past mirrorside walls, negotiating switchbacks, narrating each incline like a K-drama chase scene. A couple was having the gentlest argument over a parking spot (“You said you could parallel park!” “I said I could try”). We looked at each other, looked at our not-tiny sedan, and surrendered. Verdict: romantic for walkers, chaotic for drivers. We bailed, tucked the car in a Gyeongnidan/Itaewon lot, and decided to earn lunch with a twenty-minute walk.

Haebangchon alley with stacked rooftops and signage

Gritty-pretty lanes — HBC in one frame.

Honestly? Lovely. Namsan Tower kept photobombing us like a flirt; a cat blinked at us from a windowsill with the superiority of a landlord; laundry lines made soft flags between brick homes. By the time the market hum got louder, my city crush had returned in full.

Shinheung Market = Bangkok-ish Seoul

Shinheung Market interior with narrow corridors and signage

Shinheung Market — humble outside, collage inside.

Shinheung Market stall row and café entrances

Tiny cafés, wine bars, and buzzy bites tucked in.

Pad Ka Paw / Pad Krapow Thai restaurant signage and entrance (Shinheung Market 2F)

The shy sign everyone misses — look up for Pad Ka Paw / Krapow (2F).

From the outside it’s humble; inside it’s a collage—tiny cafés that look like film sets, a natural-wine bar tucked beside a gift shop, and somewhere between them, the Thai place we swore we’d conquer: the upstairs spot everyone calls Pad Ka Paw / Pad Krapow (spellings vary—Naver has opinions). The entrance hides in plain sight; if you’re scanning at eye level you’ll miss it. Look up; the sign is shy.

We joined the line. Someone’s basil-chili stir-fry perfume kept drifting over like a siren song. A baby in a stroller stared at us, unimpressed by our hunger. Thirty minutes passed. Forty. The sun moved down the stairwell like a spotlight. At fifty-something minutes the staff apologized—last order. My soul briefly left my body, bowed to the wok, and returned. We promised the queue gods we’d try again on a weekday.

The Closet Café Everyone Mentions

Cueva Matera closet café entrance (wardrobe door) inside Shinheung Market

A wardrobe door to espresso — Cueva Matera.

Next door sits the photo-famous closet café “꾸에바 마테라 (Cueva Matera)”—a wardrobe door that looks like a portal to Narnia and instead opens to espresso. The barista drew a tiny heart on our cups and whispered, “Break time soon—you picked the perfect five minutes.” Couples took turns playing photographer; phones went click-click against carved wood. We camped there long enough to regain our optimism and our blood sugar, then compared notes like detectives: Plan B?

K-Drama Nugget: When the Camellia Blooms

Gomgom arcade vibe spot linked to When the Camellia Blooms inside Shinheung Market

K-drama moment: “Comcom Arcade (콤콤오락실)” vibe — be mindful while shooting.

Shinheung Market also moonlights as a filming location for When the Camellia Blooms (동백꽃 필 무렵). If you’re a fan, peek at the small arcade spot locals call “Comcom Arcade (콤콤오락실)”—you’ll recognize the vibe immediately. Snap a quick photo, but be polite to staff and customers; it’s a real business, not just a set.

The 108 Stairs (HBC’s cardio + camera roll)

Haebangchon 108 Stairs with handrail detail and steep steps

Top-landing view = cardio + camera roll gold.

If you like your romance with quads, add the Haebangchon 108 Stairway. We climbed to the top landing, turned around, and watched the city pour downhill—stacked roofs, alley geometry, a sliver of skyline. A grandmother paused beside us, patted my arm, and said, “조심해요. 미끄러워.” (Be careful—it’s slippery.) She was right; smooth stone plus slope equals slapstick if you’re not paying attention. Photo tip: shoot from the top, facing down; your feed will think you scouted a movie location.

108 Stairs: Quick History 

108 Stairs: Quick History “Haebang-chon” means “Liberation Village.” After liberation and the Korean War, displaced people settled on these hills. The 108 Stairs became a daily route that stitched homes to the main road—today it’s cardio, viewpoint, and a reminder that Haebang-chon’s current cool sits on layers of lived history.

Plan B: 🍔 NoStressBurger Saved Lunch

Nostressburger storefront sign in Haebangchon

Plan B we now recommend as Plan A: Nostressburger.

Pad Ka Paw didn’t happen, but Nostressburger did—and wow. A proper juicy stack, soft bun, lacy-crisp patty edges, and the kind of ketchup-smile I made without realizing it. The server slid over extra napkins with a knowing look that said, “First time?” Sometimes the best travel meals aren’t Plan A; they’re the one you find when hunger and serendipity shake hands.

Close-up of juicy burger with crisp patty edges at Nostressburger

The ketchup-smile kind of burger.

We wandered a bit more, collecting tiny scenes—potted flowers marching down a steep lane, a neon sign that buzzed like a friendly bee, the way market chatter bounces off tile at golden hour. HBC is gritty-pretty: a little Bangkok, a little backlot, a lot of Seoul. Go for the food, stay for the stairs, and leave time for a delicious Plan B.

Plan & Essentials (KST)

Best time: Golden hour (just before sunset) for 108 Stairs photos; avoid many venues’ break 15:00–17:00.
Getting there: Line 6 Noksapyeong Station (Exit 2) → ~1.1 km uphill to Shinheung Market (15–20 min).
Driving: Narrow alleys & scarce parking—use paid lots around Gyeongnidan/Itaewon, then walk up.
Prices (typical): Coffee ₩4,500–₩7,000 · Casual lunch ₩10,000–₩18,000 · Drinks ₩12,000–₩18,000 (check day-of).

Key Spots & Addresses (map links)

Shinheung Market (신흥시장)
📍 95-9 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 04337 · Naver · Google

Cueva Matera (꾸에바 마테라) — closet café
📍 28-1 Sowol-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu (inside market 1F) · Naver · Google

Pad Ka Paw / Pad Krapow (팟카파오/팟끄라파오) — Thai
📍 2F, Shinheung Market, 97-6 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu · Naver · Google Signage varies; lunch queues common. Check hours on Naver.

Nostressburger (노스트레스버거)
📍 62 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu · Naver · Google

Haebangchon 108 Stairs (해방촌 108계단)
📍 Huam-dong, Yongsan-gu (near Sowol-ro 20-gil) · Naver · Google

곰곰오락실 — When the Camellia Blooms vibe spot
📍 Inside/around Shinheung Market (ask staff; be mindful when shooting) · Naver · Google

Mini Route (Real-time, KST)

Haebangchon alley flower shop exterior with lush greenery on stone steps, Seoul

Haebangchon alley find — a tiny flower shop spilling greenery down the steps.

3:30 PM Arrive Noksapyeong (Line 6) Exit 2 or park at Gyeongnidan → walk up to Shinheung Market
4:00 PM Coffee & photos at the closet café (Cueva Matera)
4:30 PM Try for Pad Ka Paw / Krapow upstairs (if the queue is wild, skip to Plan B)
5:15 PM 108 Stairs photo stop from the top landing (golden hour begins)
5:45 PM Quick peek at Camellia Blooms spot — 곰곰오락실
6:00 PM Nostressburger dinner → slow stroll back with Namsan views
7:00 PM Head down to Noksapyeong or Itaewon for trains/nightcap

Personal Tips I Wish Someone Told Me

If you must drive, fold your mirrors and your pride—many lanes fit one car at a time. Paid lots near Gyeongnidan save nerves.
The Thai entrance is genuinely easy to miss; scan above eye level. If you see a queue in a narrow corridor, you’ve found it.
Grip shoes > cute soles. Your ankles (and photos) will thank you.
Save a backup restaurant pin before you’re hungry. Nostressburger was ours; yours might be pizza or a cozy Korean spot two doors down.
In tight alleys, step aside between shots—everyone’s here for a moment; share the stage.

Bottom line: Haebangchon is a little gritty, a little romantic, and very date-able. Come for Bangkok-ish bites in Shinheung Market, climb the 108 Stairs for that “I’m in Seoul” feeling, hunt down a Camellia Blooms moment, and don’t be afraid to pivot—Plan B might be the memory you tell your friends about.