Joseon Hair Ornaments - Tteoljam (떨잠) and Binyeo(비녀), the Prettiest K-Drama Detail I Can’t Unsee

Korean Culture • Art & Design • Seoul Culture

This guide explores Joseon-era hair ornaments, Tteoljam and Binyeo, what they mean, how they were worn and how to wear them now without it feeling like costume.

Traditional Joseon-era Korean hair ornaments including binyeo hairpins and decorative tteoljam pieces arranged on a white background

Joseon-era hair ornaments, from binyeo hairpins to ceremonial tteoljam.
Objects designed for movement, meaning and quiet presence rather than decoration.

Why Joseon hair ornaments still feel impossible to ignore

I always find myself in awe when I watch historical K dramas. In Joseon palace scenes, the Tteoljam (떨잠) and Binyeo (비녀), worn by queens hold your gaze in the strangest way. Not because they are extravagant, but because they feel deliberately composed.

I used to have almost no interest in traditional hair ornaments. But as Korean culture became loved and watched around the world, I noticed my own heart drifting towards “Korean-ness” too. And the beginning of that shift was Tteoljam.

Tteoljam hair ornament with spring-mounted details that move with the wearer

Tteoljam. designed to move, not sparkle.

Tteoljam (떨잠) is a ceremonial hair ornament worn by queens and upper-class women in the Joseon era for rituals and major occasions. At the centre you’ll often see jade, coral, pearl and other decorative stones. Around it, small ornaments hang from fine metal springs. These details are called Tteolsae.

They respond to even the smallest movement. That subtle vibration is exactly why the ornament is called “Tteoljam(떨잠)”.What leaves the deepest impression, though, is the rulebook.

Butterfly Tteoljam (떨잠) could only be worn upright by the queen, queen dowager and crown princess. Concubines had to wear it inverted. A barely perceptible angle, yet enough to quietly signal status.

Binyeo (비녀). the simple hairpin that stays with you

Silver binyeo hairpin used to secure a traditional low bun hairstyle

Binyeo. simple, functional, quietly elegant.

Another traditional ornament I feel unusually attached to is Binyeo (비녀). When I was younger, there was a silver Binyeo (비녀) my maternal grandmother passed down to my mum. It seemed so plain that I felt nothing about it back then. Then one day, out of nowhere, I remembered it. My mum said she definitely stored it carefully somewhere, but she can’t remember where now.

For reasons I still cannot fully explain, that absence lingers more than I expect. Binyeo (비녀) isn’t flashy. But the beauty lies in its simplicity, which may be why it stays with you.

Maybe that’s why I once bought a silver Binyeo as a gift for an English friend who loved Korea. She had long blonde hair, always casually twisted up, often held in place with a pen or pencil. I imagined a calm Korean Binyeo sitting there instead, quiet, composed and entirely her own.

She truly loved it.

On blonde hair, the silver Binyeo looked strangely natural. It looked almost like she’d just tucked it in without thinking, yet somehow it made everything feel more elegant. If she still has it, I want to ask her for a photo one day.

Dwikkoji (뛰꽂이). my new obsession for ordinary days and parties

Dwikkoji hair ornament placed at the back of a traditional bun hairstyle

Dwikkoji worn as finishing detail after the bun is secured.

These days, another ornament I’ve become interested in is Dwikkoji (뛰꽂이).

After the bun is secured with a Binyeo, Dwikkoji(뛰꽂이) is placed like decoration at the back or along the side line of the hair. In the past, it was mostly saved for weddings or special occasions. But I wear it for normal days, or to a party, usually without thinking twice. And whenever I do, someone inevitably comments.

"It’s so pretty."

Traditional dwikkoji hair ornament styled for everyday wear

A traditional piece, worn without ceremony.

Tteoljam (떨잠) & Binyeo (비녀) at a glance

Tteoljam(떨잠) : ceremonial ornament with spring-mounted details (tteolsae) that subtly tremble as you move.
Binyeo(비녀): a hairpin used to secure a bun, practical first, then symbolic and decorative.
Dwikkoji: decorative back or side ornament added after the bun is secured, like the finishing jewellery of the hairstyle.

Background. Binyeo hair as a language of status

In the Joseon era, Binyeo hair was not just a hairstyle, it was a language.

How the hair was twisted, and what kind of Binyeo was used, naturally revealed whether a woman was unmarried, married and often her social context too.

Traditional binyeo hairstyle showing low bun secured with a single hairpin

Binyeo hair as it was worn. restrained, precise, expressive.

The most basic Binyeo hairstyle is Jjokmeori. Hair is twisted low, then secured with a single Binyeo. In Joseon society, married women wore Jjokmeori. Unmarried women more commonly wore braided styles.

Binyeo was both practical and symbolic. Materials carried meaning. Silver binyeo was widely worn day-to-day and was also believed to ward off bad energy. Jade or gold binyeo was saved for ceremonies and special days.

The interesting part is that Binyeo hair is not complicated. Neatly twisted hair, and one pin placed with a quiet “tuk”, done. Maybe that’s why it still looks strangely modern.

These days, I think Binyeo hair suits the present more than we expect. Minimal outfit, softly lifted hair and one single pin. It’s traditional, but it doesn’t read as costume.

Maybe that’s the point. Binyeo belongs to the past, but somehow it still feels alive in ordinary life.

How to do a Binyeo bun. the modern version

How to wear it (simple, secure, not costume)

Step 1: brush hair into a low ponytail (nape level tends to look the most modern).
Step 2: twist into a bun and hold it flat against the head.
Step 3: slide the binyeo through the bun, catching a small section of hair underneath for grip.
Step 4: if you’re adding Dwikkoji, place it at the back or along the side line as your finishing jewellery moment.

Where to shop. Dongdaemun A-dong, Naschenka and the hunt for the good stuff

Finding good traditional hair ornaments is still not easy.

Dongdaemun Comprehensive Market A-dong has a cluster of hanbok hair accessory stalls where you can find binyeo and Dwikkoji at relatively reasonable prices.

Most people shop for weddings, but I choose mine for everyday life.

Dongdaemun Comprehensive Market A-dong. quick shopping notes

What it’s good for: traditional-style Binyeo, Dwikkoji and hanbok accessories at market prices.
How to buy well: compare several stalls, check finishing and clasp strength, then decide.
Stall names people look for: Syabil (샤빌) (A-dong 5th floor 5183-ho) and 4 season (사계절/포시즌 ) (A-dong 5th floor 5085-ho) are common starting points.
Tip: if you see something you like, take a quick photo, then do one more loop. the second look saves you from impulse regret.

If I had more budget, there’s a brand I genuinely love.

Naschenka interprets traditional ornaments through a modern lens. The designs feel elegant and dignified. They are expensive, yes, but you can sense a seriousness, like tradition isn’t being treated as a cute prop.

Meanwhile, many traditional ornaments today are sold in heavily westernised versions. They can be beautiful, undeniably so. But I still prefer the quieter, original forms.

Modern hanbok rentals at Gyeongbokgung are pretty too, especially on visitors, but ornaments that keep their own shape and history have a different kind of power.

Maybe this isn’t really about decoration. It’s the act of pinning something that travelled through time back into a normal day.

It is about allowing something that has travelled through time to sit comfortably in the present.

If you’re looking for a more accessible option

Another place worth bookmarking is Jiondress. Their selection leans traditional in form, with pieces that feel wearable rather than ceremonial.

If you’re looking for something that sits comfortably between heritage and everyday styling, it’s a good place to browse.

If you’re browsing online, you’ll see more affordable pieces on Koreasang or marketplaces like Idus.

I do find that a lot of designs lean westernised, so it can take time to find something that still feels quietly Korean in its proportions.

Small related notes, if you’re building a “quiet detail” mood

If you’re going to wear a binyeo bun, glossy hair helps everything look more intentional. I wrote more about that in Korean Hair Care Secrets: Why Shiny, Healthy Hair Is 2025’s Beauty Obsession.

And if you like objects with restraint, the kind that don’t shout, this mood reminds me of PHILOSOPHY Ryo at LCDC Seoul. Quiet Courage in Seongsu.

For a place where tradition feels lived-in rather than staged, I keep thinking about Nostalgia Hidden Jae. A Hanok Stay in Bukchon That Feels Like Time Travel.

FAQs

Can anyone wear a Binyeo bun?
Yes. historically there were social rules, but today it’s a styling choice. the simplest approach is a low bun secured with one clean pin.

What’s the difference between Binyeo and Dwikkoji?
Binyeo secures the bun. dwikkoji decorates it. think of Binyeo as structure and dwikkoji as jewellery.

Is Tteoljam wearable in everyday life?
Full ceremonial pieces can feel formal, but smaller modern versions that echo the “movement” of tteolsae can work beautifully for dinners or events.

Where can I buy traditional-style pieces in Seoul?
Dongdaemun Comprehensive Market A-dong is a practical starting point for traditional forms at market prices, while Naschenka leans high-end.